When life gives you limestone

By Lauren Ferrone
Published: Thursday, May 16, 2019

There are parts of the world so beautiful it can be hard to lift your jaw off the ground. That’s the Limestone Coast: the south east’s spectacular seaside region. Stunning in summer and cosy in winter, the region brims with spectacular natural wonders and cosy haunts at any time of year. See for yourself.

Robe

Turquoise water and sand white as snow tempt tourists in summer, but winter in Robe is just as stunning.

After treading the popular Obelisk Coastal Trail, rug up and stroll the main strip to see the seaside town’s historic side.

Shops exude old-world charm from the 1800s, which is when the town was established. But you won’t get too far down the street before your eyes catch the colourful exterior of Robe Ice Cream Shop. Inside, large murals of mermaids, ships and tropical birds cover the walls and ceiling.

Painted by owner Neil Welsh, the life-size paintings draw you in while ice cream flavours like raspberry swirl and jaffa tempt you to linger. It certainly worked a treat for me.

Robe Ice Cream Shop. (Image: SATC)

With raspberries and cream on my palate, I was soon on the hunt for something to balance the sweetness and warm my hands. That’s when I stumbled across Mahalia Coffee. You’d be forgiven for thinking the shop was more antique store than café, but the coffee is arguably the best on the Limestone Coast.

Just down the road is another popular haunt – The Caledonian Inn. Known fondly by locals as The Cally, the English-style pub is the ideal spot for a hearty feed on a chilly night. Our favourite pick from the menu? Try the flake. It’s been plucked straight out of the ocean, just metres down the road, by local fishermen.

A full tummy and tired legs called for some shut eye. Built in 1847, Robe House – the first building erected in town – is a relaxing rest stop. The cottage-style dwelling has thick stone walls that make it snug in winter, and the perfect place to curl up with a glass of red as you listen to waves crash nearby.

Millicent

Has a place ever left you with a chill down your spine? That’s the eerie feeling I had driving into Millicent, heading straight for one of Australia’s most haunted pubs, the Grand Hotel.

It probably didn’t help that I’d spent the night before reading articles about the resident ghosts that reportedly lurk around the 119-year-old hotel.

That alone could be to blame for my paranoia. Would I see the mysterious man known to stand by the creaky staircase, or the dainty former publican named Mary?

Unfortunately (or thankfully), there were no glimpses of shadowy figures from the corner of my eye, though a private tour of the hotel’s boarded-up bedrooms had me clenching my fists and holding my breath as I crept from room to room.

Peering inside each room revealed something quirky and unexplained, from the abandoned baby crib to the small hand prints smeared across one of the bedroom’s walls.

Although not for the faint-hearted, the sheer history and good grub is enough to warrant a visit to the Grand Hotel.

If you’re after a world-famous feast, drive an hour to Mayura Station, between Port MacDonnell and Millicent.

Mayura Station. (Image: SATC)

Established in 1845, Mayura Station is a national award-winning boutique beef producer specialising in full blood Wagyu beef.

The secret to their success? Jelly beans, M&M’s, Smarties and a few blocks of chocolate.

High-fat products like these are usually used to help in the fattening process and improve taste. And it works. For a ‘farm meets fine dining’ experience, book dinner at The Tasting Room. It’s the ultimate paddock-to-plate experience where you can immerse yourself in the region’s best produce that literally melts in your mouth.

Port MacDonnell

Port MacDonnell is the perfect getaway spot for travellers looking to breathe in that fresh, seaside air. Away from the water though, there’s more to love about the historic port town, such as locals Donald and Sheila Feast.

The couple proudly have their collection of classic cars displayed in their own museum, Feast’s Classic Car Collection & Memorabilia.

Beginning 20 years ago with just a handful of old cars, the Feasts now boast one of South Australia’s best collections of Chrysler Valiants,
alongside other historical treasures.

Take a tour and have a laugh with Donald as he shows you around his massive garage.

After a day exploring the town, rest your feet and pour a glass of red at the historic Customs House.

Enter through the property’s big iron gates and follow the cobblestone path through to your private courtyard before opening the door to your grand apartment. Built in 1863, the building is considered one of the most important in the area. It once housed the local post office and police station, which is where the inspiration came for the apartments’ names.

Tantanoola

Tantanoola only has a population of about 200, but the tiny town’s history dates as far back as the 1800s, when a mysterious animal, described as a cross between a tiger and wolf, reportedly stalked the area. It was captured and preserved in 1895, and now you can catch a glimpse of the strange creature at the aptly named Tantanoola Tiger Hotel.

Just a five-minute drive from the hotel is Tantanoola Conservation Park. Here, you’ll find the Tantanoola Caves, another landmark with a quirky tale behind it.

In 1930, local teenager Boyce Lane was rabbit hunting around a spot known as Hanging Rocks with his pet ferret. The ferret disappeared after chasing a rabbit down a small hole in the cliffs.

Tantanoola Caves. (Image: Department of Environment and Water)

While looking for his beloved pet, he squeezed through the small gap and shone his flashlight onto hanging stalactites. After hurrying home to tell his father, it wasn’t long before the family started running public tours.

It’s easy to put yourself in the shoes of an excited child as you enter the main cave. Icicle-like shards of dolomite rock, which date back thousands of years, hang from the ceiling in shades of pink and brown. On a guided tour, you can weave your way through the cavern while learning about its history. Make your way up and down the stairs to get a view from all angles.

Mount Gambier

Unlike the region’s neighbouring towns, Mount Gambier is big. But despite its size and status as South Australia’s second most populated city, you may be pleasantly surprised to stumble across a few natural wonders within walking distance of the town centre.

Pictures don’t do the town’s mysterious Blue Lake justice. Though the lake is at its bluest in the summer months, the 72m-deep dormant volcano is just as spectacular on an overcast, chilly day.

It’s a similar case when it comes to the Umpherston Sinkhole.

The Umpherston Sinkhole. (Image: SATC)

If you’ve seen photos, you’ll know it looks enormous through the lens and stunning from all angles, but there’s nothing quite like seeing it in person.

The sinkhole, which was purchased by publican James Umpherston in 1884, was naturally created when the chamber’s roof collapsed thousands of years ago. Today, you can see the lush foliage in daylight, or dash there by dusk to see possums come out to feed.

Don’t leave Mount Gambier without visiting another whimsical garden, found right in the middle of town – The Cave Garden.

Best described as Umpherston’s little sister, this mini garden was once the original source of water for the early settlers. Although visitors are unable to venture down into the 90-foot-deep cave, there are viewing platforms where they can admire the foliage from above.

For a unique way to end your time in Mount Gambier, wander down Ghost Mushroom Lane, a luminescent forest 16 kilometres out of town.

Although it might sound like a scene out of a scary movie, Ghost Mushroom Lane is an experience that’ll brighten your adventure. The mushrooms throughout the forest emit a soft green glow after dark as a result of a chemical reaction between fungal enzymes and oxygen. Head to the forest after dark for the ultimate viewing – just don’t forget to dress warmly and bring a torch.

Explore the Limestone Coast

Let RAA’s travel experts help plan your itinerary around the Limestone Coast. Find out more below or call 8202 4340.

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