Uncovering South Australia’s outback gems

By Samuel Smith
Published: Tuesday, April 23, 2019

Driving north out of Adelaide, suburbia gradually gives way to rocky ravines, sprawling desert landscapes and truckloads of charm.

1. Coober Pedy

It gets hot in the desert. Really hot. To beat the sweltering outback sun, Coober Pedy residents have created their own subterranean world. Roll into town, then descend underground into a labyrinth of houses, restaurants, galleries, hotels, shops and even churches.

Coober Pedy is also known as the opal capital of the world, so you’re going to want to try your luck fossicking for gems. One of the most popular places to trawl for treasure is an opal field just outside of town, affectionately dubbed ‘The Jeweller’s Shop’.

Just 25km north of Coober Pedy lies the Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park. An Aboriginal-owned heritage site, the area is famous for its flat-topped mountains that glimmer in shades of pink, yellow and orange at sunset. Spend the afternoon exploring, then sit back, drink in hand, taking in Coober Pedy’s unique moonscape.

Stay the night: RAA members save when staying at the Coober Pedy Desert Cave Hotel.

Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, Coober Pedy. Image: SATC

2. William Creek

Welcome to William Creek, population: 10. Deep in the heart of the Australian outback, William Creek is the gateway to the immense Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre National Park and home to the heritage-listed William Creek Hotel.

The hotel front bar is decorated with hundreds of notes and mementos left by travellers from around the globe. Grab a drink, settle in for a pub meal, then stay the night in comfortable self-contained accommodation. Despite its modest permanent population, the number of people in this town can increase by hundreds in peak season, providing the perfect opportunity to mix and mingle with locals and fellow travellers alike.

William Creek is also a great base for outback exploration, with Wrightsair flights operating to Lake Eyre, the Anna Creek Painted Hills and Dalhousie Springs.

Stay the night at the iconic William Creek Hotel.

William Creek Hotel, William Creek. Image: SATC

3. Parachilna

Located just under an hour’s drive from the iconic Flinders Ranges, the town of Parachilna is so tiny it barely exists. Miniscule as it may be, Parachilna is known world-over for its singular (yes, singular) building – the Prairie Hotel.

Listed as one of the top 100 gourmet experiences in Australia, the Prairie Hotel’s claim to fame is its Feral Feast. The feral menu gives you a slightly bizarre, yet totally exclusive chance to devour roo mettwurst, emu liver pate and camel sausages, among other left-of-centre Aussie dishes. Wash it all down with a glass of local wine, then explore the onsite art gallery or kick back with an awesome range of visiting music acts.

From The Prairie, the outback is your oyster, whether you’re driving to Wilpena Pound or taking a 4×4 tour to the rocky peaks of Arkaroola. For the ultimate trip, take to the skies with air safaris to Lake Eyre, Coopers Creek, Innamincka, Birdsville and Wilpena Pound.

Stay the night at the Prairie Hotel.

The Prairie Hotel, Parachilna. Image: SATC

4. Blinman

Blinman is a tiny town in the Flinders Ranges, boasting little more than a pub, a hotel and a general store. You’d never suspect it was once home to about 1500 people.

To learn about its history, dating back to 1862, take a tour of the Blinman Mines. Here, you can embark on personalised guided tours featuring interactive light and sound shows.

Another drawcard is its proximity to some of the region’s most spectacular natural wonders.

Wake up before the sun rises, then drive just over an hour to the 95,000 hectare Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park. The main attraction here is Wilpena Pound: a gigantic natural amphitheatre encompassing the Flinders Ranges’ highest point, St. Mary Peak. Alternatively, spot kangaroos, koalas, emus, wallabies and eagles roaming free at Willow Creek Station, just an hour’s drive away from town.

A little closer to Blinman, just a 30 minute drive, you’ll find the tranquil Blinman Pools. Spend the day splashing in beautiful spring-fed creeks bordered by rugged scrub and sheer cliff faces, then drive on to the jaw-dropping Willow Springs Station.

Yacca Lookout, Willow Springs Station. Image: SATC

5. Hawker

Located in the heart of the Flinders Ranges, Hawker is like Blinman’s, bigger, bolder sibling. That being said, its population hovers around the 300 mark, so you won’t be encountering any hustle and bustle.

When trekking through the Flinders Ranges, Hawker is a great place to refuel. You’ll find a range of food, from traditional pub grub at The Old Ghan Restaurant to fine food, coffee and wine at The Flinders Food Co.

While in Hawker, the Jeff Morgan Gallery is a must visit. Here, internationally-acclaimed artist Jeff Morgan displays his incredible panoramic, floor-to-ceiling murals, depicting beautiful Flinders Ranges landscapes. You’ll also find a huge mineral, gemstone and fossil collection with more than ninety cabinets on display.

Those looking for a little bit of luxury can head just 40 minutes out of town to Wilpena Pound Resort where the Ikara Safari Camp awaits. Here, you can spend the night in plush ‘glamping’ tents featuring modern en suite bathrooms, luxe king beds, reverse cycle air conditioning and private decks. Sleep under the stars, surrounded by ancient, rugged scenery.

Stay the night: RAA members save when staying at Ikara Safari Camp .

Ikara Safari Camp, Wilpena Pound Resort. Image: SATC

6. Arkaroola

Though not technically a town, the 61,000 hectare Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is one of the Flinders Ranges’ most fascinating experiences. Set among rugged mountains, towering granite peaks and magnificent gorges, Arkaroola is nothing short of an outback oasis.

A fully accredited ecotourism hot spot, Arkaroola boasts walking tracks, 4WD trails and a huge range of contemporary accommodation, from motel and lodge-style rooms to camp grounds. Follow easy 2WD tracks to secluded waterholes or tackle challenging 4WD tracks across rugged mountains to spine-tingling lookouts. The pinnacle is the world-famous Arkaroola Ridgetop Track, only accessible on a tour led by the Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary.

A trip to Arkaroola wouldn’t be complete without experiencing its 3 fully-equipped astronomical observatories. See the night in unbelievable clarity through a range of ultra-high-power telescopes.

Stay the night at Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary.

Observatory, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuarty. Image: SATC

Take the trail less travelled

Explore the Flinders Ranges and Outback with RAA.

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