By John Pedler
Published: Wednesday, May 11, 2022
World class food and drink, gorgeous beaches, stunning landscapes, lively festivals and wildlife galore – South Australia has it all.
From sweeping coastlines and outback vistas, to seafood feasts and festival joy, there’s so much to see and do in our state’s 12 regions. With holiday choices aplenty, we uncover some SA treasures to inspire your next relaxing getaway or adrenaline-fuelled adventure.
Spectacular sinkholes
Limestone Coast
Kudos to James Umpherston, who created a colourful garden in a giant hole on his Mount Gambier estate in the late 1800s. At Umpherston Sinkhole, lush ferns decorate lawned terraces, curtains of ivy hang from the walls, and in summer a sea of hydrangeas bloom.
If you prefer your sinkholes completely submerged, go diving or snorkelling at Ewens Ponds. The deepest sections are about 10m, and the water is so clear that a field of plants thrives at depths of up to 6m. Permits to dive and snorkel are available online from National Parks and Wildlife Service South Australia.
Take a dip with the locals
Eyre Peninsula
The Eyre Peninsula coastline is blessed with secluded beaches, dramatic coastal scenery and laid-back fishing and farming villages. Offshore from Port Lincoln is one of the few places in the world where you can join great white sharks in the water. Lower yourself into a Calypso Star Charter’s dive cage and stand by for the arrival of these toothy giants.
Nicknamed the ‘puppies of the sea’, Australian sea lions have a noticeably different demeanour than great whites. Head out from Port Lincoln or Baird Bay for a playful frolic with these curious creatures (main photo).
If you prefer your sea life smaller and delicious, take a tour of an oyster farm in the pristine waters off Coffin Bay. On a Coffin Bay cruise, you can sample these tasty molluscs at their freshest.
Rich and rare
Kangaroo Island
A long separation from the Australian mainland has blessed KI with some truly unique features. The kangaroo in the island’s name is a sub-species of the western grey. Smaller, darker and stockier than its mainland cousin, it’s only found on KI.
The island is also home to the country’s third largest colony of Australian sea lions. Head down to the white sands of Seal Bay to watch them play in the shallows, snooze on the beach and pester each other.
Productive and mild-tempered Ligurian bees were imported to KI from Italy in the 1800s, and it’s believed that the island has the last genetically pure strain of the species in the world. You can sample the product of their labours at Island Beehive and Clifford’s Honey Farm.
Blue swimmer crab bonanza
Yorke Peninsula
Yorke Peninsula is blessed with its fair share of scenic coastline and charming seaside towns. Many travellers heading for the leg-shaped land of the long weekend are on the hunt for blue swimmer crabs – one of seafood’s greatest hits.
On the east coast, throw a crab net off Ardrossan jetty, a blue swimmer hotspot. Crab rakers wade through the shallow waters just offshore from town, at nearby Tiddy Widdy beach, and further south at Pine Point.
On the west coast, try your luck at Moonta Bay, Port Hughes or Wallaroo jetties. The best time of year to catch these tasty crustaceans is any month with an ‘r’ in it, but just calling it Aurgust doesn’t make it so.
Fabulous festivals
Adelaide
There are so many festivals in Adelaide, it’s hard to know where to start. In January, the Santos Tour Down Under cycling race rolls into town and, in February, the Adelaide Fringe kicks off.
So, March. The beginning of autumn sees the Fringe continuing to fill our theatres, pubs and parks with an eclectic mix of music, comedians, cabaret shows and circus acts. Then comes the Adelaide Festival with its own crowded calendar of events. Not done? Head down to Botanic Park to hear sounds from around the world at WOMADelaide.
March may be mad, but the rest of the year is pretty hectic too. Turn up hungry to Tasting Australia presented by RAA Travel in April and May, then prepare to tap your toes at the Adelaide Cabaret Festival in June. Illuminate Adelaide lights up the city in July.
In August, the SALA (South Australian Living Artists) Festival brings all sorts of visual arts to town. The OzAsia Festival in October and November is a showcase of Asian dance, film, music, literature, visual art and food.
River reverie
Riverland
Stretching from the Snowy Mountains in New South Wales to its outfall at Goolwa, the Murray River is the third longest navigable river in the world. You can navigate it in a houseboat, paddle a kayak into bird-filled wonderlands in the many billabongs and backwaters, or take a sunset Rivergum Cruise and let someone else do the navigating.
At Banrock Station, near Kingston, see the magnificent job they’ve done restoring the wetland, or take a seat on the riverside deck at the Woolshed Brewery at Murtho and sample their quirky range of beers.
Food and more food
Barossa Valley
It’s no surprise the Barossa Valley is considered Australia’s most famous wine region, and it also produces top-notch food. Cheese lovers will be in their element among the fetas, halloumi, bries and camemberts at the Barossa Valley Cheese Company in Angaston.
Chocolate fans will delight in the handmade treats at the Barossa Valley Chocolate Company in Tanunda. Tanunda’s Apex Bakery opened in 1924 and they’re still using the original woodfired oven. Their pasties are legendary.
If you’re keen to learn how to cook like the pros, try the St Hugo Kitchen Garden Cooking Experience at St Hugo Wines or a cooking class at Maggie Beer’s Farm Eatery in Nuriootpa.
Getaway stays just a short drive away
Fleurieu Peninsula
The Fleurieu is far enough from the city to feel like you’ve been away, but close enough that it doesn’t take long to get there. In fact, packing for the trip will probably take longer than the drive.
From Port Noarlunga to Second Valley and on to Goolwa, there are caravan parks all along the coast – pitch a tent, tow a van or book a cabin. There’s also a huge range of other accommodation options, from seaside retreats to luxury bush getaways. Stay at the
secluded CABN Georgia at Kuitpo and disconnect from the hustle and bustle of city life.
Once you’ve settled in, head for the surf, tour the McLaren Vale wine region or bush walk in the wilds of Deep Creek Conservation Park. RAA members can save on accommodation with RAA Travel.
Outback adventure
Flinders Ranges and Outback
Just five hours’ drive from Adelaide you’ll find the ancient gorges and soaring escarpments of the Flinders Ranges. Wind whispers through native pines, mighty red gums line stony creeks and elusive yellow-footed rock wallabies skip nimbly across cliff faces.
Choose your level of adventure, from bush camps deep in the ranges to fancy glamping tents and luxury villas. Take a four-wheel-drive tour from Wilpena Pound Resort, Rawnsley Park Station or Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, or test your own off-road skills on one of the many user-pay tracks on private property.
Walkers could spend a lifetime exploring all the trails in the Flinders Ranges.
Further north, experience iconic outback journeys on the historic Birdsville, Strzelecki and Oodnadatta tracks.
Country cycling
Clare Valley
The 36km-long Riesling Trail follows an old railway line from Barinia – north of Clare – to Auburn, and passes through farms, woodlands and vineyards. You’ll also find a few cellar doors not too far from the pathway.
The trail is a former train line, which means all the major troughs and peaks were smoothed out long ago. However, it does rise gently from each end towards Penwortham, which is a good place to start if you’re after a mostly downhill ride. The views across the valley are a delight.
The trail continues for another 19.5km south from Auburn to Riverton, becoming the Rattler Trail on this section.
Coorong cruising
Murray River Lakes and Coorong
Listed under the Ramsar Convention of Wetlands as a Wetland of International Importance, the Coorong is a 140km-long lagoon that supports an incredibly diverse variety of plants and animals.
The Ngarrindjeri people have a close association with the region and there are significant cultural sites in the dune field that separates the Coorong from the ocean.
If you’re keen on kayaking, fishing, camping and ticking the Red-kneed Dotterel off your twitcher’s list, then this is just the spot. A boat trip with Spirit Australia Cruises or Coorong Wildside Tours will take you deep into the Coorong’s watery world.
Market magic
Adelaide Hills
The Adelaide Hills is all about fresh air, delightful country towns, colourful autumnal flushes, cool-climate wines and markets galore. Settle into a cosy Adelaide Hills retreat, then go shopping. For fresh regional produce, head for Adelaide Hills Farmers’ Market in Mount Barker or Mount Pleasant Farmers’ Market on Saturday mornings.
On the fourth Sunday of each month, you’ll find just about everything, from arts and crafts and jewellery to plants and local produce, at the Stirling Market. Pop into Uraidla’s Institute building on the first and third Sunday of the month for preserves, pottery, baked treats, plants and much more.