The little island paradise that beats Bali

By David Nankervis
Published: Friday, December 21, 2018

Bali may boast some beautiful beaches, but some of the best in Indonesia can be found just a half-hour boat ride away, on a little group of islands with a big attitude.

20km off the south-east coast of mainland Bali, across the Badung Strait, lies a group of 3 islands – Nusa Cenigan, Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida.

Nusa Lembongan, the nearest of them all, is easily accessible from the resorts of Sanur and popular with people looking for a break from the Bali bustle.

Thankfully, it’s not hard to find peace and quiet here due to the dearth of cars, hawkers and tour group gawkers.

And you don’t even have to compromise on the quality of food or Wi-Fi connectivity. Among the top attractions are some of the best beaches and snorkelling spots in the region, with gorgeous tropical fish, colourful coral and year-round resident manta rays. These are some of the standouts.

Mushroom Bay

As much as I enjoy getting away from the maddening crowds, the aptly named Mushroom (shape) Bay draws the day-tripping crowds for good reason.

The bay water’s warm, the sand’s white and there’s easily accessible snorkelling around the southern headland. There are plenty of beachfront eateries offering fresh seafood, Indonesian staples and even wood-oven pizzas, as well as a couple of small general stores with takeaway beers and snacks.

Accommodation across the board is available – from villas with infinity pools and stunning bay views to bargain back-street rooms.

Get there: You can organise direct fast boat ferry rides between Sanur and Mushroom Bay, and either hire a scooter to see more of the island or enjoy walking-distance destinations nearby.

Mushroom Bay on Nusa Lembongan.

Manta Bay

There’s nothing quite like swimming with a huge ocean creature to make you feel insignificant. In the Nusa islands, one of the biggest around is the majestic – and totally harmless – manta ray.

They gather in the aptly-named (again) Manta Bay, off the coast of Nusa Penida – the biggest of the 3 islands. Gliding gracefully through the water, they slowly beat their pectoral fins like wings, with their huge mouths open to catch plankton.

You can swim with majestic manta rays off the coast of Nusa Penida.

Despite their size – growing up to 5 metres wide – the mantas pose no danger, although some snorkelers we travelled with were certainly spooked by the rays’ curiosity.

Personally, I learnt that you’re the one who has to give way when they sail by. An absolutely amazing experience.

Get there: Accessible by a short boat ride from Mushroom Bay – find your own driver or join a tour. You must be a good swimmer to undertake this experience, as the manta rays can move quite fast.

The view at Manta Bay on Nusa Penida is stunning.

Crystal Bay

Not far from Manta Bay, also off Nusa Penida, is this snorkelers’ paradise where the water teems with coral and fish.

All the colours of the rainbow are represented below the surface, and when the sun comes out the view is truly breathtaking.

Watching all manner of weird and wonderful fish swim around the swaying coral and dart around rocks is mesmerising.

As a result, the bay is a popular spot for snorkelers and divers so it pays to keep an eye out and not drift too close to the bobbing tour boats.

Get there: Usually visited as part of the manta tour. Check before booking whether yours includes a trip here too.

Crystal Bay on Nusa Penida island is teeming with coral and fish.

Dream Beach

A half-hour walk from Mushroom Bay, this beautiful beach attracts a huge swell and a strong current, and is best appreciated over a drink from the balcony of the local bar, or the restaurant of the Dream Beach Huts resort.

The stunning view from on high is picturesque in every sense, capturing a small golden sand beach framed by turquoise blue sea and headlands at either end of the bay.

As well as the vista on offer, seats at the restaurant are prized for the delicious local and international food and the ice-cold beer.

Get there: Walk, or hire a scooter.

Dream Beach offers stunning views.

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