SA’s boutique wine regions

Explore our state's lesser-known grape-growing areas.

By Lauren Ferrone
Published: Wednesday, February 13, 2019

With some of the world’s oldest vines and more than 700 wineries and counting, there’s no denying South Australia bottles some of the best drops. However, far from the Barossa Valley’s bold reds and Clare Valley’s renowned Rieslings, there are lesser-known grape-growing areas proving big in their own right.

Mount Benson, Limestone Coast

Known for much more than a 17-metre tall red lobster, many of the vines in this region are planted in distinctive terra rossa soil above limestone, which formed over millions of years while the area was underwater.

This fertile soil structure is known for producing some of the best drops of red because it regulates the water supply to the vines. For evidence of this, head to Cape Jaffa Wines (pictured at top), whose owners grow their fruit in biodynamic vineyards. Don’t leave without wandering around the massive veggie patch or saying hi to the winery’s resident sheep.

Adventurers who’ve sipped their way through the region and want to explore further afield can visit the World Heritage-listed Naracoorte Caves – known as one of the world’s most important fossil sites.

It’s believed ancient species fell through a hole in the ground and were trapped. Don’t let that scare you off – this beautiful part of the region is much safer than it was half a million years ago.

DO: Drive 20 minutes out of town to Kingston SE and climb the 122 stairs to the top of Cape Jaffa Lighthouse, which is open only during school holidays or by appointment.

Located on the esplanade amidst houses and quaint holiday shacks, it’s one of the best ways to see the town from a different perspective. In fact, you’ll get a 360-degree view, and on a guided tour you can even hear stories about the families who once lived here.

TASTE: Try the new gluten-free vegetarian sausage rolls at Aggie’s Place, a café just a little more than a kilometre from the Cape Jaffa Lighthouse.

STAY: Camp out among the vineyards at Coonawarra Bush Holiday Park’s glamping tents after a day sampling what the region has to offer. Pitched halfway between Mount Gambier and Naracoorte, the tents are decked out with heaters, aircon, TVs and even beds.

People wandering Naracoorte Cave.
Naracoorte Caves, Limestone Coast.

Kangaroo Island

There’s a lot of buzz around Kangaroo Island – and not just because it’s world-famous for producing honey from rare Italian Ligurian bees.

The island gives McLaren Vale a run for its money (or wine) as the up-and-coming place to see the vines meet the sea.

For the best view of the island’s lush greenery merging with the Southern Ocean, find a spot on Sunset Food & Wine’s sea deck, just outside of Penneshaw. Sip on a glass of any one of the island’s famously fruity wines, or taste the hint of KI honey infused with caffeine and liqueur in an espresso martini.

If you’re travelling here in autumn, you may be lucky enough to get a glimpse of newborn seal pups as they cruise in colonies along the coast.

Explore underground limestone caves and discover the best spot to see kangaroos bounce about.

The ideal way to experience some of these activities is on a guided excursion – take your pick from a range of tours.

DO: Stop by Clifford’s Honey Farm to see the family’s bee hives from the safety of a glass viewing area, and don’t forget to taste owner Jenny’s delicious honey ice cream before you leave.

TASTE: Foodies looking to satisfy their tummies with seafood can stop at the Oyster Farm Shop. The freshest oysters are shucked daily from April to January. Just remember: this isn’t fine dining; it’s a unique KI farm-gate experience, so use your hands, throw back your head and slurp.

STAY: Spectacular sandy white beach and sea views make even 1 night in The Glasshouse worth the dent in your wallet. The unique 2-storey property with glass walls is definitely one for the bucket list.

Enjoying a meal and wine in Kangaroo Island.
Sunset Food & Wine’s sea deck, Kangaroo Island.

Eden Valley, Barossa Ranges

While some may consider this quiet town to be the Barossa Valley’s little sister, there’s no sibling rivalry here. There’s an argument to be made, though, that Eden Valley is just a bit cooler.

Bordered by the Barossa Valley to the west and the Adelaide Hills to the south, the temperature in Eden Valley is significantly lower, helping give the wine its unique crispness.

For a top tipple, make your way to the Henschke family’s Mount Edelstone vineyard.

Brockenchack Wine’s 120-year-old vineyard, about 15km south-east of Angaston, is another must-visit. Owners Trevor and Marilyn Harch, who came up with the winery’s name by combining letters from their grandchildren’s names – Bronte, Mackenzie, Charli and Jack – will likely be there to welcome you.

Known as the ‘Garden of Grapes and Gums’, both wine and trees are deeply rooted in Eden Valley’s history. In fact, it was said to be named when surveyors mysteriously found the word ‘Eden’ carved into a tree.

On the theme of foliage, the Herbig Family Tree, a hollow red gum near Springton – is a quirky landmark. It’s thought to be up to 500 years old, and was once the home of German immigrant Friedrich Herbig, who lived there in 1855 with his family.

DO: Need a place to store your wine purchases? If you’re in Eden Valley for a few days, create your own wine table with help from woodcarver Michael Mason, who runs four-day classes from his shop The Woodcarvers Haven. The classes run three times a year, with the next scheduled in May.

TASTE: Short on time? Taste Eden Valley is a tasting room in Angaston where winemakers from across the region often meet. There are wine tastings and even sweet treats – who can say no to handcrafted chocolate truffles and wine?

STAY: Just a 20 minute or so drive from Eden Valley is the Barossa Retro BnB. This 70s-inspired property in Nuriootpa takes you back in time with retro fittings and psychedelic patterns, plus there’s a pinball machine to keep the kids entertained.

Lesser-known wine region, Eden Valley.
Henschke family’s Mount Edelstone vineyard, Eden Valley.

Currency Creek, Fleurieu Peninsula

About 6km from Goolwa, this small Fleurieu Peninsula town is rich in history, food and, of course, wine. The best place to experience all 3 is at One Paddock Currency Creek Winery.

Feast on fresh produce from their iconic Sunday blackboard menu, which tempts patrons to return for a second – or third – weekend in a row.

For an outdoor adventure, trek to Black Swamp. Eerie as it sounds, this heritage-listed wetland has a picturesque hiking trail near One Paddock Currency Creek Winery, and is home to rare bird species. Lace up your boots and tread the swamp’s 2.7km circuit, while making some feathered friends along the way.

DO: Count how many canoe trees you can spot around town. These are large eucalypts with a section carved out by the local Aboriginal people, who’d make wooden vessels from the trunk.

TASTE: You can’t have wine without cheese, and vice versa. That’s why the 20-minute drive to Mount Compass’ Alexandrina Cheese Factory is worth it. Try Fleurieu Peninsula’s Mount Magnificent Gouda wheel – it’s, well, magnificent.

STAY: About a 10-minute drive from Currency Creek is Boathouse & Birks River Retreats, which overlooks the River Murray. It’s the perfect place to unwind by the water with a big group.

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