Journey across Australia on the Great Southern

Ride the rails to adventure.

By Clair Morton
Published: Thursday, February 20, 2020

Visiting 4 states in 3 days. If an overseas visitor told you that was their plan for touring Australia, you’d likely (politely) tell them they were dreaming.

But it is possible to do, and in comfort. Through luxury train travel, Australia’s tyranny of distance dissolves into a carousel of 3-course meals, iconic sights and experiences, and a lullaby of sleeper carriages.

Nestled in an unassuming building in Keswick, the terminal feels more like a luxurious airport lounge than a train station. Mimosas are being poured, there’s an acoustic musician crooning in the corner, and check-in is a calm, relaxed affair.

Attendants float around offering light breakfast bites and the journey manager, Zafer Tasci, is going from table to table introducing himself.

He’s a fresh face in the industry, having moved over to railway journeys from the hotel business in August.

“I love travelling, I love experiential travel and seeing iconic places, and this is the [best] experiential travel company in Australia,” he says.

There is a magic in the air. And it’s romantic, the sense of adventure.

This is just the beginning of a trip on the Great Southern, the newest route offered by Journey Beyond.

While the Ghan takes you through the heart of Australia and the Indian Pacific makes traversing the remote Nullarbor a breeze, the new kid on the tracks winds its way along the eastern seaboard between Adelaide and Brisbane.

A friend and I have managed to secure spots on the Adelaide departure just before Christmas, and for the relaxed atmosphere, there’s a spark of excitement in the air.

Especially when the famous call comes: “All aboard!”

In no time at all, we’re introduced to our sleeping quarters for the next 3 days – a cosy little cabin consisting of a big window, side table, and a lounge which will be folded down into bunk beds at night.

As everyone settles in for the journey, the train starts to pick up speed. Destination: The Grampians.

Lying 460km east of Adelaide, the national park is one of the richest Indigenous rock-art sites in Victoria and boasts a banquet of natural beauty.

We’re looking forward to getting there, but it’ll take a little longer – on the day we leave the mercury exceeds 40 degrees, and as a precaution a cap has been put on the train’s maximum speed.

Looking out over the Grampians. Image: RAA
Boroka Lookout, the Grampians. Image: RAA

Not a big deal when the cabin is cool and the views from the window are so picturesque.

A morning watching the country pass by can work up a surprisingly large appetite.

And so we take a (slightly swaying) walk through the carriages to get our first taste of the Queen Adelaide Restaurant. The 3-course menu has us salivating even before the food comes out, overflowing with fresh, native Australian produce and rich desserts.

It’s immediately clear that this is no place for dieting, and anyway, I think I might have just died and gone to heaven.

Dinner is served. Image: RAA
Dinner is served. Image: RAA

Dinner is a different affair altogether. The train rolls into Stawell station, and from there we’re shuttled to Halls Gap, at the base of the Grampians mountain range. Here a beautiful white marquee, filled with long, shared dining tables, stands by a lake. Kangaroos graze around us while we sit down to sample a smorgasboard of delicious local food and wine.

By the time the sun sets over the mountain range, they are out in droves to watch our feeble attempts at playing quoits.

All too soon we’re back on the train and bound for Canberra, but our cosy beds are a welcome sight. We wake up, well-rested, on day 2 of our 3-day adventure and watch the red sun rise dramatically through a smoky haze – the first sign of the bushfires taking hold in Southern Australia.

The high temperatures have stuck around, but for most of us, the day will be spent inside the halls of Canberra’s most famous buildings. While a few passengers set off to explore the Murrumbateman wine region, we start the day with sparkling wine and canapés in the Members’ Hall at Parliament House, an area normally closed off to the public.

Inside Parliament House. Image: RAA
Inside Parliament House. Image: RAA

We’re then taken on tours of the Senate and House of Representatives, and shown a tapestry based on an Arthur Boyd painting, which took 13 full-time weavers about 2 and a half years to finish. It’s impressive, but perhaps not as impressive as the exclusive lunch we’re treated to in the Parliament House private dining room on the top level of the building.

The afternoon takes a more reflective turn as we move on to the National War Memorial, one of 4 options we could choose from. To call this place moving is an understatement – it’s something every Australian should experience at least once in their lifetime.

When we get back on the train at the end of the day, the smoke is getting thicker. The sky grows dark and red as we sit and have an afternoon drink in the communal Explorer’s Lounge – it’s all anyone’s talking about.

The Australian War Memorial. Image: GSR
The Australian War Memorial. Image: GSR

Shortly after, we’re advised that the tracks are closed ahead due to fire and we’ll have to make a detour.

In a situation that would normally be a little nerve-racking, we’re left feeling safe and at ease thanks to the crew, who go above and beyond to make sure guests are regularly updated on the unfolding situation.

Later, journey manager Zafer reflects that the unexpected can sometimes become part of the adventure.

“That’s the beauty of the train,” he says.

“Through [shared experiences], everyone comes together. In a hotel setting, people tend to keep to themselves, but here, everyone becomes friends on day one.”

It’s true. At this stage, we’ve been on the train for almost 2 days and already I know everyone in our section by face, if not by name. And it’s clear from everyone I’ve spoken to that once you start travelling by train, it’s easy to become hooked.

Coffs Harbour Jetty. Image: iStock
Coffs Harbour Jetty. Image: iStock

Several people I meet have already travelled on the Ghan or Indian Pacific. Others have ventured further, from the Rocky Mountaineer in Canada to the Blue Train in South Africa.

That doesn’t make the Great Southern any less exciting though – the sheer variety of destinations is the real drawcard for these passengers. So much so, many have booked the return journey, which stops at Newcastle and The 12 Apostles.

As we approach our penultimate destination, balmy Coffs Harbour, the skies are clearing. The markets are in full swing, the sea water is clear and cool, and the ice cream and gourmet fruit platter served under our own private marquee is extravagant.

It’s a fitting, relaxing way to spend the last day of what has truly been a journey of a lifetime. I only wish we’d booked our return journey via train instead of plane.

Journey Beyond

Book your own Great Southern adventure with the help of an RAA travel expert.

Related Articles