Driving the Strzelecki Track

SA's vast deserts are only just up the road.

By John Pedler
Published: Wednesday, October 23, 2019

This iconic outback route owes part of its history to cattle rustling.

In 1870, Henry Arthur “Harry” Readford droved about 1,000 stolen cattle from Queensland through to Blanchewater Station in northern SA, roughly following the route we now know as the Strzelecki Track.

He sold the mob at Blanchewater and then skedaddled to Adelaide.

Two years later, he was tracked down and arrested in Sydney, and wound up in court in the Queensland town of Roma. Despite overwhelming evidence against him, he was acquitted. It’s thought the jury was so taken by his skill and daring that they couldn’t bring themselves to convict him.

Following the verdict, a stunned Judge Blakeney turned to the jury members and said, “Thank God, gentlemen, that verdict is yours, not mine.”

The government then closed the Roma District Court for two years.

No longer just a track
No longer just a track

Although there had been stock movements in the region prior to Readford’s bold caper, it’s thought the fame surrounding his escapade drew attention to this route for droving cattle to the Adelaide markets.

When droughts, economic downturns and the constant difficulty of crossing The Cobbler dunefield saw the stock-route all but abandoned, no-one knew of the natural resource bonanza that lay beneath the desert sands.

The development of the oil and gas fields has seen the Strzelecki Track turned into a major outback road, and in good weather it can be travelled in a conventional vehicle with decent ground clearance.

These days you’re much more likely to encounter a convoy of caravanners or a fleet of semi-trailers hauling equipment to Moomba, rather than a robber and his cows.

Cooper Creek, west of Innamincka
Cooper Creek, west of Innamincka

Accommodation and camping

Accommodation is available at Leigh Creek Resort, Leigh Creek Caravan Park, Leigh Creek Hotel (Copley Pub), Copley Caravan Park, Lyndhurst Hotel, Innamincka Trading Post and the Innamincka Hotel.

There are caravan parks at Leigh Creek, Copley and Lyndhurst.

Camping is permitted in the town common at Innamincka (honesty box) and there are toilets and coin-op showers opposite the Trading Post.

Many travellers head for the campsites east and west of town, on the waterholes of Cooper Creek. Camping permits are available online at Parks SA, or from the Innamincka Trading Post.

Moomba gas plant
Moomba gas plant

Handy information

  • The StrzeIecki Track is 471km long.
  • It’s named after Polish explorer Paul Edmund de Strzelecki.
  • It’s a formed gravel road, with sections of bitumen.
  • In dry weather it’s suitable for conventional vehicles, though good ground clearance will prevent bottoming-out over dry creek beds and stone damage to the vehicle’s undercarriage.
  • If you plan to go further afield (e.g. the water holes along Cooper Creek) you’ll need at least an all-wheel-drive.
  • The old Strzelecki Track, which runs roughly parallel to the main track, is graded earth and is quickly closed by wet weather. The northern section of the old track is narrow and rough.
  • Fuel is available at Lyndhurst, Leigh Creek, Copley and Innamincka.
Montecollina Bore
Montecollina Bore
  • Travellers should be fully self-contained when venturing into the outback. Carry plenty of fuel, food and water, as well as recovery gear.
  • There’s no mobile coverage so it’s strongly recommended that a satellite phone or HF radio be carried.
  • To avoid windscreen damage, slow down when passing oncoming vehicles.
  • Check road conditions before heading off.
Dunes on the Strzelecki Track
Dunes on the Strzelecki Track

Rest area locations

  • About 3km south of the Moolawatana turnoff, 79km north of Lyndhurst.
  • At the Dog Fence, 103km north of Lyndhurst.
  • Near the Murnpeowie HS turnoff, 125km north of Lydhurst.
  • Art Baker Lookout, 208km north of Lynhurst – great views towards the northern Flinders Ranges.
  • Montecollina Bore, 221km north of Lyndhurst – flowing bore, lots of hawks, and a great spot for camping.
  • At the Strzelecki Creek crossing, about 270km north of Lyndhurst.

Useful Links

Outback Road Conditions
Innamincka Regional Reserve

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