Go west

Hit the road with our itinerary and you’ll see the best WA has to offer.

By Clair Morton
Published: Wednesday, November 7, 2018

The term Wild West was coined to describe America’s colonial frontier, but perhaps it’s better suited to Australia’s largest state. From the spectacular scenery of Kalbarri National Park to the giant whale sharks that cruise the waters off Exmouth, this is truly a wild place.

Day 1: Perth to Jurien Bay

There’s not much distance to cover on this leg if you stick to the road, but detours to check out WA’s largest sand dunes at Lancelin and the Pinnacles in Nambung National Park – a unique desert filled with hundreds of limestone pillars – should be enough to fill your day. Watch the sun set over the azure waters of popular skydiving spot Jurien Bay, keeping an eye out for a playful sea lion or two.

Distance: 220km

Pinnacles in Nambung National Park
The Pinnacles is a unique desert filled with hundreds of limestone pillars.

Day 2: Jurien Bay to Kalbarri

If you’ve ever wanted to get up close and personal with royalty, this might be your chance.

Near the town of Northhampton, down a dirt road, is a bizarre ‘micronation’ known as the Principality of Hutt River.

Formed in 1970 following a dispute between the WA Government and the Casley family, this quirky Principality is presided over by Prince Graeme, and even issues its own currency and passports (which aren’t officially recognised by the Australian Government). Not far from here is Port Gregory, which boasts a stunning pink lagoon where the river meets the ocean. Stay as long as you want – just make sure you get to Kalbarri with enough sunlight to take in the raw power of the ocean on Kalbarri’s clifftop walks to Island Rock and Natural Bridge.

Distance: 350km

Hutt Lagoon, near Port Gregory
Fairy floss-coloured lagoon near Port Gregory.

Day 3: Kalbarri to Carnarvon

From Kalbarri, the loop back down to the highway is full of surprises – if you know where to look.

Nature’s Window, a magnificent rock arch located high above the Murchison River, is deep in the heart of Kalbarri National Park but worth the drive and 500m walk. Stretch your legs here before setting back out – it’s a 4-hour drive to Carnarvon. One of WA’s primary producers of bananas, this unique coastal town of fewer than 5000 people has an interesting claim to fame.

The Carnarvon Tracking Station was instrumental in NASA spaceflight programs in the 1960s, including the first landing on the moon, and it was the first place in Australia to receive a satellite television broadcast. You can explore this history at the Space and Technology Museum, which was officially opened by astronaut Buzz Aldrin in 2012.

Distance: 448km

Nature's Window Kalbarri
It's like looking through a window, deep in the heart of Kalbarri National Park.

Day 4: Carnarvon to Exmouth

Make sure you’re stocked up with plenty of food, water and fuel before hitting the road – the stretch from Carnarvon to Exmouth features huge termite mounds, the odd kangaroo and not much else. There is the Minilya Bridge Roadhouse at about the halfway point, which is a good place to stop and stretch your legs, but it’s on this leg of the journey you’ll realise just how far away you are from civilisation.

Distance: 363km

Ningaloo Reef
Ningaloo Reef is crystal-clear and home to thousands of incredible species.

Day 5: Exmouth

Once you’ve come all this way, it’s worth spending some time exploring the crown jewel of WA – the incredible World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef.

While not as expansive as its cousin, the Great Barrier Reef, the crystal-clear fringing reef is home to thousands of incredible species. The biggest of those is the enormous, graceful whale shark, which isn’t actually a whale at all.

As the world’s biggest fish, it can grow up to 12m, and the WA north coast is one of the few places in the world they migrate to every year. Better yet, you can swim with them. It’s a bucket list item that’s not to be missed during their migration season, but if you go any other time, you can still swim with manta rays and maybe even a humpback whale.

If you prefer to stick closer to land, there’s plenty to see by snorkelling off crystal-clear Turquoise Bay or heading inland to explore Charles Knife Canyon. End the day with a meal and maybe even some live music at Froth Craft Brewery. Swim with a whale shark on the Ningaloo Reef.

That's a big fish

Whale sharks can grow up to this long, and WA is one of the only places they migrate to every year.

Day 6: Exmouth to Coral Bay

The more time you have to spend in the small settlement of Coral Bay the better – here, the Ningaloo Reef starts right at the shoreline. You can spend the whole day snorkelling, take a kayak tour, or even scuba dive. Just don’t miss the chance to explore the reef while you’re here. If you’re around between November and February, you might even be lucky enough to spot turtles nesting on the beach at night.

Distance: 150km

Coral Bay
Spend the whole day snorkelling at Coral Bay.

Day 7: Coral Bay to Denham

Grab coffee and breakfast to go from the Coral Resort Bakery – you’ll need some energy for the drive. Today’s journey will take you to the quiet bay of Denham, a place to relax and unwind in the heart of the World Heritage-listed Shark Bay. If you’ve got time to spare once you arrive, take a stroll along the shoreline – just don’t be surprised if you see emus doing the same thing.

Distance: 556km

Skipjack Point, Francois Peron National Park
Explore the Shark Bay region.

Day 8: Denham to Geraldton

There’s so much to explore in the Shark Bay region that it’s worth staying as long as you can. Start the day with a drive to Monkey Mia for a chance to feed the wild dolphins that visit the bay every morning.

The feedings used to be a bit of a free-for-all but are now regulated by Parks and Wildlife, and restricted to three sessions a day. Not everyone will get to feed a dolphin, but if you stick around for more than one session, you’ll have a good chance.

Squeeze in the buffet breakfast at the RAC Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort before heading out to explore more sites along the World Heritage Drive on your way down the coast. Try to spot a dugong from the Eagle Bluff boardwalk, go back in time with a prehistoric walk across the Hamelin Pool’s stromatolites, or check out the remote beaches of Whalebone and Goulet Bluff.

Distance: 417km

Day 9: Geraldton to Perth

The home stretch. If you’re feeling rich, take a detour to the Cervantes for a fresh lobster lunch you won’t forget before heading back to Perth.

Distance: 414km

The image at the top of this story was captured by photographer Aimee Jan.

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