Ancient pagodas sit comfortably among gleaming coastal resorts, war remnants squat in the jungles of palm-fringed tropical islands, and a sea of motorcycles negotiates mind-numbingly hectic traffic.

From the mayhem of Ho Chi Minh City’s streets to the haunting beauty of Halong Bay, Vietnam is relentlessly fascinating. Here are six places to include on your itinerary.

Vietnam’s bustling southern ‘capital’

For many travellers, Ho Chi Minh City is their first introduction to Vietnam – and what an intro! On the streets, a throng of motorcycles competes with cars, buses and trucks for limited space. Just crossing the road is an adventure. Sure, there are plenty of zebra crossings, but these seem to be just street art and shouldn’t be taken seriously.

However, the south’s buzzing metropolis has more to offer than chaotic traffic.

I believe this is where pho lovers will find the best version of Vietnam’s tangy beef noodle soup. In Ho Chi Minh City, and all over the Mekong Delta, the dish arrives with a side plate brimming with fresh herbs.

Independence Palace is one of Ho Chi Minh City’s many evocative historic sites. Also known as Reunification Palace, it was once the residence and workplace of the South Vietnamese President. The building has remained almost frozen in time since tanks rolled through the gates at the end of the war in 1975.

The opulent interior décor whisks visitors back to the 1960s, and the basement bunker is a warren of tunnels housing war-era communications equipment, maps and other paraphernalia. There’s even a Bell UH-1 Iroquois (Huey) helicopter parked on the roof.

Other popular sites for visitors include the War Remnants Museum – not for the faint hearted – and the Cu Chi Tunnels, which represent just a fraction of the vast network of tunnels the Viet Cong used for communication and moving supplies. Cu Chi is 44km north of the CBD, so you’ll need to organise transport or take a tour.

Light and colour on the old Silk Road

Through all the turmoil that’s beset Vietnam over the years, Hoi An has managed to escape virtually unscathed. The town was an international trading port for silks and ceramics until the late 18th century, when politics and a heavily silted access river saw shipping activity move up the coast to Da Nang.

Ironically, being ignored for 200 years has led to the salvation of this remarkable relic of a bygone era, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Sure, it’s often busy and there’s no shortage of cheesy trinkets on offer, but Hoi An remains one of my favourite places in Vietnam.

Motor vehicles aren’t permitted in the old town, which adds to the enjoyment of exploring the narrow streets lined with mustard-coloured buildings.

In its maritime heyday, Chinese, Japanese and European traders settled here, and the local architecture reflects their influence. The distinctive arch of the chunky Japanese covered bridge, complete with a tiny temple, is probably the most photographed feature in the old town.

Hoi An is at its most vibrant when the sun sets. Wooden boats scoot travellers around the Thu Bon River, waterfront restaurants buzz with revellers, and families shop at the night market beneath a galaxy of colourful lanterns.

Medieval France on a Vietnamese hilltop

The first time I rode the 5.8km-long cable car to Sun World Ba Na Hills, our carriage disappeared into a fog so thick I could barely tell we’d arrived. Having heard so much about this hilltop theme park, I quite literally couldn’t see what all the fuss was about.

My second visit on a gorgeous sunny day was an eye-popping revelation. In a nod to the French colonists who occupied Vietnam until 1954, the locals have built a replica French village in the hills behind Da Nang. The town is complete with cobblestone streets, a pâtisserie, restaurants, a wine cellar and much more.

This is just part of Sun World’s collection of European cultural reproductions, which includes Romanesque statues and a German beer plaza. There are also eateries offering all sorts of Asian food, hotdogs, buffet staples and barbecued treats.

There’s an indoor amusement park with kids’ rides and arcade games, a downhill toboggan ride, a pagoda, a huge buddha statue and a spiritual zone, all contributing to an eclectic blend of fun park and cultural mash-up.

One of Ba Na Hills’ most iconic attractions is a 150m-long golden bridge supported by two giant hands, fashioned to look like carved rock. It’s an engineering marvel, and the views from the bridge towards the coast are stunning.

Island dreaming

Phu Quoc has developed rapidly over the years and offers all the trappings you’d expect from a popular tropical island.

If you’re keen on a room that’s only a few metres from the beach, yet not too far from shops, bars, coffee houses and pizza places, then head for the hotels and resorts at Long Beach. Just beyond your bungalow door, you’ll find the warm, clear waters of the Gulf of Thailand.

Nearby, the island’s main town of Duong Dong hosts a lively night market. For excellent views of the town, and a fair chunk of the island, drop into the hilltop Son Tra Hill bistro and bar.

If you’re after a full-blown resort, spa, amusement park and golf course experience, book a room at Vinpearl Resort and Spa on the north of the island. For the very latest in luxury digs, check out the vast New World Phu Quoc Resort, with its own private beach, in the south-east corner of the island.

A grimmer view of island life can be seen at the old Phu Quoc Prison, just up the road from New World. Now a museum, the curators have used mannequins to show the harsh realities of war.

Old world history and charm

Despite the impossibly narrow streets and regular motorcycle gridlock in the Old Quarter, Hanoi has a more relaxed atmosphere than manic Ho Chi Minh City. The richly historic capital oozes charm, and most of the main attractions can be reached by walking or taking a short taxi ride.

If you’re on foot, you’ll likely be lost in a flash, but that’s half the fun. There are so many quirky shops, restaurants and cafés to investigate that you’ll be in no hurry to rediscover your hotel.

Most explorations of the Old Quarter end up at the delightful Hoan Kiem Lake. It’s an easy stroll around the lake, through parks where locals exercise and vendors sell ice cream and other treats. A small wooden bridge leads to the quaint Ngoc Son Temple, dedicated to Tran Hung Dao who defeated a sizeable force of invading Mongols in the 13th century.

Vietnam’s more recent hero, Ho Chi Minh, is interred at an imposing mausoleum. Entrance is free and lands you at the end of a lengthy queue, which quickly snakes its way around a park before reaching the inner sanctum, where Ho Chi Minh has lain in state since 1975. The hushed onlookers, super-serious guards and chilled air inside the mausoleum all add to the eerie experience of seeing the man who had such a significant influence on world history.

Picture-perfect at every turn

Conical hats aside, the limestone outcrops of Halong Bay are among the most recognisable images of Vietnam. Around 1600 islands and towering rock pillars make up this UNESCO World Heritage-listed marvel.

No matter how many photos you’ve seen, there’s little to prepare you for the thrill of drifting through this incredible seascape. The precipitous sandstone spires are everywhere, topped with greenery that somehow clings to sheer rock. I’ve been to Halong Bay several times and the awe never gets old.

There are lots of boats touring the bay but because it covers such a vast area, you’ll only encounter the masses when you visit the main attractions.

Tender boats shuttle passengers to popular spots like the enormous Sung Sot (Surprise) Cave and the beach on Ti Top Island. However, if you’d rather stay on your cruise boat and just soak up the scenery, that’s fine too. Most cruises also include an opportunity to kayak among the islands.

Day tours are available, but to truly experience Halong Bay, you need to spend at least one night on the water. Watching the sun set over this scenic wonderland is a memory for the ages.