SA’s top 5 road trips

By John Pedler
Published: Monday, July 1, 2019

Much of South Australia is wild, untamed and breathtaking – come see for yourself with our top 5 road trips.

Flinders Ranges, Parachilna to Hawker, via Brachina Gorge and Bunyeroo Valley

In places where extreme movements of the earth’s crust have twisted and folded the landscape, and thrust it into the air, it’s fair to expect some dramatic scenery.

Rightly labelled ‘a corridor through time’, Brachina Gorge is flanked by escarpments that have been torn open by erosion to reveal 650 million years of geological history. There are rocks patterned with ripples from a prehistoric inland beach, imprints of stromatolites – some of the earliest creatures ever to appear on Earth – and even a layer of debris from an asteroid impact in the Gawler Ranges, some 300km away.

Bunyeroo Valley Road, Flinders Ranges. Image: SATC.

Adding to the scene are gnarled river redgums that line the creek bed, and native pines which whisper in the breeze. Elusive yellow-footed rock wallabies hop nimbly along the cliff face.

And these are just some of the reasons this drive through the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park is one of SA’s best.

Continue south towards Bunyeroo Valley, an achingly pretty drive that leads to lookouts with spectacular views. Beyond that, it’s all about the world-famous Wilpena Pound – a natural amphitheatre of mountains that should be on every Australian’s bucket list.

Although this route’s unsealed in parts, there’s no need for a 4WD if the weather’s fine. However, decent ground clearance is important.

127km, 3 hours 15 minutes

While you’re there: Watch the sky turn a brilliant red as it sets over Rawnsley Park Station’s eco villas, which are tucked away in a secluded spot with breathtaking views of the Flinders. RAA members save 10% on a stay here.

Fleurieu Peninsula, from Port Noarlunga to Cape Jervis

Port Noarlunga Reef is an aquatic reserve with waters simply teeming with fish, plus a mixed bag of other marine oddities. On a calm day it’s a great spot for snorkelling. A little further south at Seaford and Moana, surfers are occasionally treated to small but well-formed waves.

From Moana the road heads inland, but a right turn at the Aldinga Hotel leads to a gorgeous stretch of beach at the base of the cliffs, extending south from Port Willunga. At Aldinga Beach and Silver Sands you can drive right onto the seashore for a day of fun in the sun.

Onkaparinga River Mouth, Fleurieu Peninsula. Image: SATC.

Heading back inland, the road climbs into the hills and winds its way through to Normanville, a popular seaside holiday town.

Then it’s on to Second Valley, a tiny village with an equally tiny beach, dramatically squeezed between the hills where they plunge into the sea.

Rapid Bay, 5km from the main road, is the last coastal town before the descent from the ranges towards Cape Jervis reveals panoramic views of Kangaroo Island.

This road trip is one of the most accessible routes, and well worth the drive.

80km, 1 hour, 30 minutes

Marree to Marla on the Oodnadatta Track

Roughly following a line of springs that bubble up from the Great Artesian Basin – a natural underground reservoir – this route has been used over centuries by Aboriginal traders, and more recently the overland telegraph and the Ghan railway.

The Ghan line has since been moved further west, but several of the old rail stations and bridges remain. The station at Curdimurka has been substantially restored, and the Oodnadatta station is now a fascinating museum relating the extensive history of the region. At 578 metres long, the Algebuckina rail bridge, spanning the Neales River, is a jaw-dropping testament to 1890s ingenuity.

The Oodnadatta Track, Flinders Ranges and Outback. Image: SATC.

The Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs sit in a particularly bleak part of the desert, highlighting just how crucial water is for survival.

Experienced four-wheel drivers can tackle the rattly track out to the Peake Telegraph Station ruins, and the extremely remote track from William Creek to Lake Eyre. There’s a lookout over the smaller Lake Eyre South just beside the Oodnadatta Track, but to fully appreciate the enormity of the lake it’s best to book a scenic flight.

This is the true outback, so it’s essential to be thoroughly prepared.

649km, 24 hours

Gawler to Melrose, via the Clare Valley and lower Flinders Ranges

Heading north from Gawler, the road first passes through farmlands before gradually climbing into the hills of the Clare Valley, one of the most scenic wine regions in the country. Home to well-known labels and smaller boutique wineries, there are plenty of opportunities to sample the local product.

Soak up the country air on a bike ride along the Riesling Trail, following an old rail alignment through bushland, farms, vineyards, and even past the odd cellar door. If you don’t have your own wheels, bikes can be hired locally.

Pikes Wines - Slate Restaurant, Clare Valley. Image: SATC.

Further north, the peaks of Mt Remarkable National Park, in the southern Flinders Ranges, rise up behind the pretty village of Melrose. The park is a bushwalking hotspot, with treks taking anything from 20 minutes to a couple of days.

Go to Mt Remarkable National Park’s website to find out which trails are open.

227km, 2 hours, 46mins

Port Lincoln to Ceduna, via the Flinders Highway

Port Lincoln is one of the few places in the world where you can climb inside a shark cage and mingle with great whites. But there are plenty of other, less sharky pleasures on offer along the state’s west coast.

Dozens of secluded beaches and sheltered coves dot the coastline, and towering cliffs stand against the ferocity of Southern Ocean swells. The tranquil fishing village of Coffin Bay is a picture-perfect setting for a serve of the town’s famous oysters, and the cliff top drive at Elliston will certainly keep the cameras clicking. Surfers can head for the waves near Streaky Bay, while fisherfolk have nearly 400km of beaches, bays, rock pools and jetties to choose from.

Sand Dunes, Sheringa Beach, Eyre Peninsula. Image: SATC.

The road doesn’t stick to the coast for the whole trip, but any detour to the seaside will be well rewarded with stunning scenery. Perhaps the best part is that there’s no large-scale tourism development here, just a string of farming and fishing communities living their lives according to the seasons and the tides.

405km, 4hrs 15 mins

While you’re there: Wade out into the water and learn to shuck your own oysters at Oyster Farm Tours at Coffin Bay. RAA members save 5% on this unique water experience.

Hit the road

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